Inside the Jewel Vault with Belinda Morris

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INSIDE THE JEWEL VAULT WITH BELINDA MORRIS
Belinda Morris is the long reigning editor of the Jeweller magazine, which is produced by the National Association of Jewellers, the UK's leading trade body. Starting out in fashion journalism, before turning her attention to watches and jewellery, Belinda boasts a decades long career in trade journalism, alongside her vintage jewellery hobby.
I hope you enjoy listening to Belinda's insights and discovering the pieces she treasures as much as I did, making this episode.
And I want to hear from you! What special pieces would you put into your fantasy jewel vault, and why? Every so often I’ll compile your stories into a podcast of their own. So please email me: jessica@juraster.com
Produced by Lizzie Wingham. Engineered by Asa Bennet.

Can we go back in time and start with the story of how you fell into this world?
It's quite an odd coincidence, really actually. My father's great-great-grandfather, whichever it was, who went from England to South Africa, he was a friend of Cecil Rhodes and he also was involved in Diamond Mine.
And he and his wife carried the fake Cullinan diamond from South Africa to England, whilst the real one went in the post to fool would-be thieves. So he and his wife, so it was in her handbag, my great-great-grandma, and then they took it to the offices in Piccadilly. And then they went to Amsterdam to watch the real thing being cut. So yeah, so it's a really weird, you know, the fact that I have this kind of connection. Nobody could have believed that they would have done that - they would have imagined somebody carrying it.
Are either of your parents in journalism at all?
No, my father was a fighter pilot and my mother was, well, she's a housewife, but she was a craftswoman. And then she's very creative sewing and all that kind of thing. But I wanted to be a fashion journalist since I was about 12. People didn't know anything about fashion journalism. So which O levels to take and all that sort of thing.
So entirely self-directed. And with your father being in the British Air Force, were you travelling everywhere?
Yes, not as much as we might have done. But yes, mean, Aden, which is Saudi Arabia and Germany and then around the UK. So I was at boarding school from 11 because of that. I remember saying when I was a bit younger to my father that I wanted to be a pavement artist somewhere like Venice and draw pictures of tourists. And he said, yeah, you could probably do that. Okay, but I don't think there's much money in it. So I kind of shelved that And then went to journalism and specifically fashion journalism.
When you were at school were you surrounded by fashion acolytes?
It was a girls’ school and it was a bit on the fashion-y side because we had to get changed for tea. So we had to get out of our uniforms and into our own clothes, which meant for at least the week, if not month of a new term, sort of like every day something different to wear. So when I went home at long holidays I'd chain my mother to the sewing machine and say I want flares they've got to be this wide.
My mother was very much into fashion. She would see what was in fashion in the newspapers and then she would make herself whatever it was, which meant that she'd be wearing things like hot pants before anyone knew they were a fashion. yes, but when you're only 10, you just want a mother that looks else's mother. So was a bit, you know, and now I appreciate it. When I look back, she was great. But she was a bit outrageous, really.
She was very happy that I was doing what I was doing. And you know, where have you been? Who have you seen? Who have you photographed? All that kind of thing. So, so.
Do you have anything in your jewel vault that links to your mum?
If you know that my mother used to make earrings out of Christmas tree decorations, you’ll understand why! My mother's engagement ring, which she, she doesn't wear it. I think my father bought her a different ring on one of the anniversaries that she prefers. So I wear this one, which is an emerald with diamonds on the sides. yeah, and my father died about 20 years ago and he always said that any, jewellery that he bought my mother would have to go into the grave with her. And I remember her just looking at me and shaking her head and going, don't listen to him. So sorry, daddy, I've still got it and I'm wearing it.

What a beautiful emerald ring, is it an antique?
To be honest, I don't know. It definitely looks it. I mean, it has a sort of a slightly deco-y feel about it. And I know which shop he bought it from in York, they definitely sold antique pieces as well as modern pieces. So it's possible
My mother, when she was in her fifties, she's very beautiful and she had a sort of Elizabeth Taylor look about her. I think Elizabeth Taylor liked green stones and, my mum had long dark hair. so green things suited her. So, maybe that's, that's where I've got the look from. Also green was my father's preferred colour for cars, whereas most people think it's unlucky. My father said it was lucky, so every car he got had to be green. So it's obviously there in me. preferred colour for cars, whereas most people think it's unlucky. My father said it was lucky, so every car he got had to be green. So it's obviously there in me. And I've always said that I haven't got a sentimental bone in my body, so I've just disproved that theory about myself. So that clearly isn't true at all.
More on the colour green...
A couple of years ago, I got a second piercing in my ear because we were at a trade show and the people on the stand next to us were demonstrating their new ear-piercing system. The CEO or somebody on the stand said, would you mind just going and having your ear pierced so we can do a video of it?
After my husband and I separated. I thought, what shall I do to mark this occasion? I know I'll go and have my ears pierced, which my mother would never let me do when I was a child. And I went to Claire's accessories to do it, because at the time, you know, this was a little while ago, not many jewellers were doing ear piercing, it had kind of fallen out of favour amongst independent jewellers.
So went to Claire's accessories and there was a form you had to fill in and at the top of the form it said, parental consent with a box to tick. And I said, do we have to do this? Because if I phoned my mother now, she'd still say no. They said, we can forget that. We'll just go ahead and do it. So, whilst I was at this trade show, after I'd had the ear piercing, the second piercing, I bought a little pair of emerald studs to go, once I'd had to take the other thing out. so, yeah, I'm sort of, I have a little green emerald thing going on.
Belinda on her Grandmother...
My grandmother was more my influence because she had lots of beads, loads and loads and loads of them. And so every time I visited her, I used to play with those.
I just went straight to a bedroom, straight to a wardrobe, straight to a box and just took all the jewellery out and put it all on. And so, that was the starting point. Whereas my mum was very much more kind of flamboyant. My grandmother said that my mum had no taste and she was just too much. And just like, why do you have to have so many really cheap things?
I just want lots and lots of things rather than one nice thing.
Do you have sisters or brothers?
Just a brother so I had my family jewellery all to myself. And all the jewellery that my mother still has, there's loads and loads, but it's all sort of 1980s big earrings, the sort that Joan Collins would take off in order to make a phone call in Dynasty, all those sorts of earrings.
Is there anything in the Jewel Vault then that reminds you of your childhood?

Well, my grandmother's beads, these are my grandmother's beads. I can't now remember whether she gave them to me or I was left, you know, they were among a pile of things that my mum said that I could have. But what I do know about them is that my grandfather, my mother's father was also a pilot in the Air Force and he was in Iraq teaching the Royal Family to fly in the ‘50s.
And on his second tour, my grandmother and my mother went out there with him. And these beads she bought. So I know that they must be 1950s. I like them because they looked a bit like amber, but they won't be amber. I don't know what they would have been in Iraq in the 50s, but maybe resin or something like that.
So they remind me of her and I love amber, so I love the colour of these.
Takes you right back to your grandmother and your family history, which is wonderful. So did you go to university and study?
I went to the London College of Fashion I did a fashion writers course, which was in the college was just over. It was Oxford Circus above what used to be British home stores in Oxford Circus. So it was great, you know, going from the boarding school on the East Coast of Yorkshire straight down to central London.
I thoroughly enjoyed it, and we'd go to Paris and go to couture shows and we did b eauty therapy, textile science, so we were covering all sorts of different things that might be useful to us going into fashion journalism or beauty journalism.

Vintage Dior Earrings
But the next pair of earrings is a pair of Christian Dior, Diamante earrings, because just as I was leaving college and having flat shares and stuff like that, I discovered Camden Market. And in discovering Camden Market, which was a different sort of place in the 80s than it is now, it was much more ramshackle and sort of random. you know, people like Katherine Hamnet had a stall in Camden Market, you know, things like that. But I just discovered vintage.
Clothing first and then when I needed a ball gown to go to an event, a work event, I wanted vintage jewellery and so these, which I think they're probably 1960s and they're in perfect condition, despite the fact I've had them all these years and moved from pillar to post. They still, they're still together in one piece.
They're quite big and they clip on obviously so they're quite heavy but they're not uncomfortably heavy. You've got a sort of like amethyst colour stone at the top and then the diamante round and then another amethyst.
So we're in London and you've started your first job. Where were you working?
My very first job was when everybody, they used to call it work experience, they now call it being an intern or something, don't they? But when you did work experience, my work experience job was actually my first proper job. And I went to Woman's Own magazine and I was replying to readers' letters on fashion and beauty problems.
But it was all behind the scenes because the front person was a lady called Claire Rayner, who you may or not remember. And she would come in once a week and pick up a selection of letters that she thought were interesting, that had been answered. They were all genuine letters.
And so all I was doing was simply wading through piles and piles of people with hairy legs and, you know, whatever, that they didn't know what to do about. so that's sort of, yeah, there were some funny ones. There were some funny ones. And the level of ignorance back then was shocking.
Given that I'm talking about the end of the 70s, these questions were quite daring. They actually did do a sex survey, which went on for pages and pages with people having to, I can't remember what all the questions were, but it was quite in depth to the point where one of the more elderly readers then sent us a letter, absolutely outraged that the magazine she bought for knitting patterns and recipes was spouting all this obscene stuff and it was a very funny letter which got pinned up on the notice board.
I was a stylist and responsible for getting the clothes in and finding out who was on TV and whether they were suited. We didn't use models, we used celebrities from TV, so like actresses or game show hostesses or whatever. So I had to find out who their agents were, whether they were attractive enough to be in the magazine, what their sizes were, and then call them in. You know, we do a photo shoot with them. So it was good fun, yeah.
Can you name any names or any stories?
It's funny, I told this story to some people, it was actually during COVID, somebody did, a sort of interview blog thing, just light-hearted. And they said, any funny stories? And I said, well, and I've never thought about it as being something I shouldn't say, but you know, different times and all that. But back then, we occasionally did a men's feature and there was a police cop series called Hazel. And Hazel was played by an actor called Nicholas Ball, very handsome, young guy, very nice. And we thought, yep, and his, the new series was coming up and, we said, yep, he'd be great. It'd be really good to get him. Called his agent and myself and the other assistant who was slightly senior to me. It was just two of us actually. We said to the agent, we need him to come into the office to make sure the clothes fit. And it was just before Christmas, we got a couple of bottles of Beaujolais Nouveau and some mince pies, which we heated up. And then we went into the clothes cupboard with Nicholas Ball and made him try trousers on for an hour.
I'm sorry, I'm very ashamed of it now, not. He was a grown up and he was perfectly happy to take his trousers off in front of us. So that was that.
And continuing onto the next few years...
I’ll skip the next eight or so years. I went from there to a trade magazine for the menswear industry, which was called Menswear, which I stayed in for eight years and really enjoyed it. But I was waiting for a consumer magazine to come along because I really wanted to move from trade to consumer. And it never did. so eventually I moved on and became… What else did I do? I worked for the International Institute for Cotton, doing trend forecasting for the cotton industry and producing a booklet. So that was really nice. That was a nice job. Then I went freelance, and I ended up in the jewellery industry because I was doing a job for a publisher who then got the job of doing The Jeweller Magazine, which was done in-house by the NHA at the time.
And he said… There's nobody at the NAJ that can write. There's no journalists there. It's just all knowledgeable people in the industry. But they need someone who can do news stories. And I said, could do that, couldn't you? And I said, well, technically, yes, but I know nothing about jewellery. And he said, that's fine. They'll send you all you need to know. And it was pre the internet. So I just get wadges of paper, press releases to turn into news stories.
And then I started doing features, then eventually, sadly, when an editor at the time died, he hadn't been unwell, so it was a complete shock. But the publishers phoned me up and said, could you just, this is in the middle of an issue, can you finish it? So I said, yep, and I'll carry on until you find yourself another editor. And eventually the job was mine.
But there, I had moved to Norfolk from London and initially the publisher said, well, you can't be an editor if you don't live in London. So I was like, well, think I probably can. No, you can't. And then eventually there was another editor in between and when she decided to leave, he got in touch with me again and said, now will you do it? And I said, thought you said I couldn't. And he said, I never said that. But anyway, that was about 14 years, so 22 years in total I've been working for the magazine.
So do any of the pieces in your vault remind you of this switch?
The only, this isn't anything to do with, we've sort of slightly, we've missed out a bit actually, about 10 years ago or so, I got divorced because my husband found someone else. We're still friends, it's fine.
Life's too short, et cetera, et cetera. But immediately it happened. I then had to go on an assignment for, I think the Independent newspaper, can't remember now which one it was. I had to go to Peru and I took with me a photographer and a manufacturer, he's Peruvian,
We had to stop on the way back in New York. So, I said, and we had quite a long stopgap and the photographer and the guy from Peru, both very familiar with New York, I had never been. So, I said, okay, since it's my first time, we're going to do everything I want to do. So, I had a list of things I wanted to do, going to a diner and, you know, seeing Central Park and all that kind of stuff.
But the other thing I said, I want to go into one of those stores and buy myself a pair of Miriam Haskell earrings. Because my husband used to buy me a lot of vintage, know, Scapparelli and Haskell and stuff like that. So, with our joint credit cards, I went into the department store.

I bought myself a pair of these and then I wanted to go to the Algonquin bar and sit and have cocktails wearing my new earrings. So I was living the dream, yes.
I've always been into big long earrings actually has to be said. So yeah, these are about three inches long with a sort of fringe of chain. They're brass. And then there's just a little cluster of like a little flower at the top of like a little daisy, but it's all brass. And then the chains hang from a sort of almost snow drop effect.
Miriam Haskell made jewellery for Hollywood stars throughout the 40s and 50s. yeah, so she used faux pearls and all that sort of thing, but they were made beautifully and very much loved by the stars. And there was a shop in London that used to sell them as well, but that wasn't the same as going into a department store in New York and buying them. And I love them. I really love them.
I used to have to go to a lot of black tie things when I was on Menswear magazine and I still do through the jewellery industry. We have black tie events, know, awards and things like that. So it's nice to have lots of glamorous jewellery to choose from. I also have a vintage hobby. I buy and sell vintage costume jewellery as a hobby, doing sales locally, as well as clothes and accessories.
Tell us more about your love for collecting vintage jewellery...
So the earlier earrings, the Dior one sort of started me on that collecting. I must have at least a hundred vintage brooches. And maybe about the same with earrings, different types of earrings. So yeah, that's my partner calls me bling, which is like blin, which is what I used to get called at school. So he just put a G on the end, B apostrophe L-I-N-G. So he just calls me bling. I'm in the right job!
I don't have children so I'm sort of trying to groom one of my nieces into being really into jewellery so I could pass things on to her.
Are there any pieces in the Vault that mark any major milestones, anything that other than your bucket list purchase in New York?
Andrew Geoghegan Chocolate Box Ring
Well, the last thing, the ones that I haven't got here because sadly I don't own them, but they were sort of next on the list, it's a beautiful ring by Andrew Geoghagan. And again, it's the green thing going on, although he does do them in other colours, but that's, if I was feeling kind of pleased with myself and wanting to treat myself to something, that's probably what I'd buy if he's listening to this later. He'll be in touch. He said, you've been going on about that ring for the last 10 years. It's about time you bought it. But yeah, I love it. And I love the shades. They're tourmalines and they're lovely. And the fact that three different shades of tourmaline really nice.
It's the ‘Chocolate Box’ design, and he calls that one ‘Envy’ because of the colours, obviously. There's three different cuts of tourmaline - very leafy green, set in yellow in a table style- like a sort of cubist sort of thing, yeah, and then with diamonds as a frame around the edges of it.
So tell us about Andrew Geoghagan. What's his background? Where does he work?
Well, he is originally from Leeds but he now lives in Portugal and he lives and works in Portugal. So, but he still, he still has customers here and he did attend a fairly recent CMJ show. maybe he was a finalist in one of the NAJ awards. And it was a black tie-do and he arrived straight from Portugal and he was wearing a white shirt, white shorts and flip-flops. But he looks so fetching because he's very handsome that nobody minded. Yeah, I think the buttons in the shirt got sort of undone lower and lower as the evening went on. He's great, he's a really nice person.
He was a sculptor before he became a jeweller. It's interesting the number of, when I've talked to new designers, especially if they're slightly older, what they were doing before, didn't go to jewellery school or anything. A lot of them come from the city. They've got money, but they can never find what they want. So they make it themselves and find someone to make it for them. That's sort of one entry. And the other,
I found are either sculptors or architects, both of which are kind of using that, you they're working three dimensionally. So they're just taking what they do and making it into small wearable pieces based on that. So that makes sense. I probably did know that, I've forgotten.
So there's another green ring in here, which I can see. So tell us what this is, because is this one you own yourself?
Rock Hound NanoCeramic Ring
I bought it myself for myself. It's by the Rock Hound, which is the company owned and she designs the pieces, Susi Smither. And I've always loved what she does. She's very, very strong on colour and I do love colour. And I was at the Jewellery Cut show which unfortunately the Jewellery Cut doesn't exist anymore sadly but the last show I went to Susi was there and all the rings were there in the different colours and I'd always been talking about it and saying I really love it but I was moving house I think I just probably just moved house and I seem to remember saying when I sold my house and downsized, then I'll treat myself. And so, and I'd probably said it to a few people and they're going, you're gonna treat yourself now. It's like, maybe. But then when I saw this and then I tried it on and a gemstone dealer was standing near me who I know, Stuart Poole from 1948. And he said, yes, buy it, buy it. So in the end I did.
And so it was, I call it my lockdown present, but it was just after lockdown. It was in ‘21, I think, that I bought it. But it was very much, hadn't done anything else with my money, hadn't really been on holiday or done anything like that. And so I just thought, I must deserve it, surely. And it's a peridot. then it's set in 18 carat gold. And then the bright green is nano ceramic. But I have the name of the lady who cut the stone. So I know all about the stone. The stone is from Afghanistan, which is great to know. What was it? A lady called Lisa Elser in Canada cut the stone.
Let's talk more about Susi Smither... Is she part of the Fair Luxury movement as well?
Jessica's Notes: I've never actually met Susi, but I've seen her, you can see her across the room because of her amazingly colourful hair, clothing, and I've not met her myself. I was doing my research I saw that she trained with the Scottish Gemmological Association, who are noted for their wild annual ceilidhs! Susi's a super trained gemmologist. She's got all of the GIA, the FGA, goodness knows what else.
Belinda: Well, you know, the gemmological contingent in this country are great, They're all so generous with their knowledge and their time and it's just a really good community of people.
I remember when she first appeared, and I think it might have been at the first Jewellery Cut. I can't remember to be honest, but I do remember meeting her. And as you say, once you've seen her, you can't miss her because she's such a vibrant person in every way. And I've always loved what she did. So I've always written about her in the magazine. And then when I bought this ring, she travelled my house. She's down in London somewhere. I live in Norfolk so she travelled up with my ring in its precious case and yeah so it was really nice. Hand delivered it yeah.
So tell us about this amazing green nano, the ceramic coating that she uses.
Yes, the ring is from the Bombe, B-O-M-B-E, I don't know if you pronounced the last E, but to be honest, I don't know very much about it. I just know that it is nano ceramic and that she uses it a lot. And so it really just really highlights the ring that is around it. You know, there was a choice of other colour rings, not many, because a lot of them had sold, but the pink one is...
But when I asked her, how do I describe this, she just said it's nano ceramic. So it's like, OK. But I wear it often. And I wear it when I go to trade shows. And if I'm looking at someone else's jewellery, they often, you know, it's commented on all the time and then I have to take it off and they inspect it and so people find it fascinating. I know in the industry.
Jessica's Notes: It's super colourful and also very sculptural, isn't it? That central peridot is an octagon set into this sort of bridge across the bomb. And I love the colour, the contrast in tone because you've got this amazing electric greeny blue, nano ceramic coating contrasting with the leaf green peridot and then the wonderful lustre of the gold.
Belinda: Yeah, and that is obviously faceted as well so that it fits snugly in it. So, it's 2.9 carat. I wear it quite often because if I'm wearing something green... I just go through my jewellery and it's like, what green thing shall I wear? And I have a lot of green rings, I mean, this one is that I'm wearing is, but it's such a dark tourmaline that you only see the green in certain lights. And if I only had Andrew's cocktail ring.
And now is when I pose the question of all questions, because it's the tradition in the Jewel Vault podcast. So out of these six amazing pieces we've discussed, what is the one piece of jewellery that you would choose to keep safe forever?
Definitely Susi's the Rock Hound ring, yeah.
Just to totally underscore the fact that it might be my mother's engagement ring, but hey, I've also got her the ring that my father bought her when it was their Ruby wedding anniversary. So if, you know, if I didn't have that one, I'd, you know, if all the others were stolen because they weren't in the vault, I'd have the other ring. I've got backup. It may not be green but I've got backup.
It's kind of because it was my gift to myself, I guess. It certainly costs more than any of the other pieces, even more than I think than Andrew's would be. And it's sort of for myself, from myself, rewarding myself, I guess, if I had to give a reason for it. So and I do love it.
I'm very happy with it. Made me feel a bit sick after I'd spent the money, you know, like you would feel. But then that kind of like, what have I done? I'll never eat again. But then I look at it and think, who cares about eating? I've got this ring. so no, I'm very happy for it to be the one left in the vault.
Belinda, this was wonderful. Thank you so much for sharing your vault with us - It's been wonderful to hear your story!
Absolutely. It's a pleasure. I've enjoyed it as someone who has to ask people questions all the time for my job. I've loved doing this because really, jewellery is so important to me. It's my life now. It's quite nice having someone ask me stuff because that doesn't happen. So yeah, it's been really nice. Thank you very much for asking me. Yeah, it's an honour to be asked. I'm really happy.
I hope you enjoyed listening to this episode as much as we did recording it. You can find images of all the wonderful pieces we’ve been talking about as well as the show notes and guest information. Just go to www.insidethejewelvault.com/podcast where you’ll find all the episodes hosted on Juraster’s website, and you can also discover our spellbinding jewellery designed to transform.
And I want to hear from you! What pieces would you put into a fantasy jewel vault, and why? Every so often I’ll be collecting your stories into a podcast of their own, so please get in touch - email me: jessica@juraster.com.
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